If a picture is truly worth a thousand words, then this review is already nearing novella-length, and there should be nothing left to be said about Al Maha. However, as beautiful and exotic as the pictures make Al Maha look, they still don’t tell the complete story. It is a remarkably self-assured property that never attempts to be anything but itself, yet somehow manages to be everything to everyone.
Al Maha had been on my radar for several years as an absolute must-visit destination. One day. When it worked out alongside something else. In June, that one day came. My father passed away after an extended illness, and I needed to get away by myself to clear my head. Desert was my first instinct, and I considered Arizona for a bit. Then on a whim, I investigated the logistics of Al Maha. They were surprisingly straightforward--a lucky Etihad award First Class to Abu Dhabi, and a reasonably priced Qatar QSuites back. The rate for Al Maha on the Marriott site was much lower than I anticipated--roughly $330 USD per night for room and breakfast. The all-inclusive rate covers more meals, alcoholic beverages and two property activities each day, but none of those were things I needed for my three-night stay.
I booked a car to the resort via Etihad chauffeur from Abu Dhabi airport; the resort assisted with booking transportation back. The drive took a bit less than two hours--just over an hour along the coast to Dubai and another 45 minutes or so to the resort. When we turned off of the main highway and started heading to the resort, herds of oryx could occasionally be seen resting in the shade. Once past the guardpost at the resort's gate, gazelles and oryx were both very visible. My driver, who had never been to the area before, looked at me quizzically and asked, "Is this a zoo?" When I stepped outside of the comfortably air-conditioned car at reception, I discovered that the $330 rate was due to the intense heat of the off-season and not just another lucky find. It was approaching 110F, and so would each successive day of my stay.
After a seamless check-in and buggy ride, the heat surprisingly proved to be easy to manage during this trip. The sumptuous villa was well air-conditioned, and the private pool was climate controlled to a nice 68F, which was actually chilly in the early morning and cooling during the heat of the day. The shade over the lounge chairs was ideal for relaxing mornings, midday and evenings. The afternoon was the perfect time to spend at the spa or just nap in the incredible bed. The villa was comfortable and designed to reflect the desert and the region's Arabian heritage; it was the ultimate in luxury without feeling pretentious or overstated.
A few days prior to arrival, I specified that I was a wildlife enthusiast and asked for a watering hole view if available. The resort granted that request, and as I stepped out onto the wooden deck for the first time, I had a genuine desert oasis right in my backyard. There were oryx resting in the shade and gazelles darting back and forth between the trees and the watering hole. Birdlife was abundant--francolins, silverbills, and myna to name a few--both in the vegetation around the patio and near the mirage come to life in front of me. The villa was wonderful, but this is where I knew most of my time was to be spent. Lying back on a lounge chair or floating in my personal pool, I felt like the only person for thousands of miles—as though the villa had been built specifically for me.
I spent each morning outside, watching the sunrise over the desert while listening to the gentle cooing of the doves--both calming and seeming to drown out any background noise. The oryx and gazelles joined me while I had my morning coffee, and on two of the mornings, a curious Arabian red fox came nearly to the edge of the deck before noticing me and making a swift retreat in the other direction. The sun being fully up was normally my cue to call for a quick buggy ride to the lobby for breakfast at the restaurant upstairs. Being able to enjoy a varied breakfast buffet alongside freshly pressed juices and cooked-to-order eggs benedict while gazing out over the sands at the mountains of Oman in the distant haze was special--not something you can get in Scottsdale.
Al Maha didn't change its identity for my visit, but I suspect that if a honeymooning couple were to go there, they would have a completely different experience that was equally rewarding--enjoying floating breakfast served in their own pool or a romantic sundowner by firelight. The same goes for someone looking for desert adventure: camel trekking and all-wheel-drive rides across the dunes. I have no doubt that people looking for a quick weekend getaway from Dubai could easily be enthralled by the contrast. The resort fulfills a variety of roles, but in the end, it is just Al Maha.
It is a phenomenal property that offers so much. I am grateful to have experienced it, even if I have no immediate plans to return. I know it will be there when I need it.
